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Category: Fault Finding
  1. I've bought two Olympus Trip 35 cameras, one for my girlfriend, and one for myself. I've got a problem with mine... I've shot two roles Fuji Superia 200 with it and with both some of the negatives are blank. Does that mean that the aperature doesn't open sometimes? My girlfriend's camera doesn't seem to have that problem. Can you help me?
  2. Hi there, Ran my first film through the Trip. Used Auto mode. No problems until reaching frame no 14 when the film winder began to show resistance as if the film had finished. Managed to wind on to the next frame with difficulty. Decided to completely rewind film back at this point. When I got the negatives back I could see that at exposure 14 the film had ripped and there were brown lines running across that particular shot and a couple before. Any idea's ? Cheers
  3. Hi there. I've just bought my trip 35 from a charity shop for £3.99 but have noticed that the red low light box only pops up when it likes and sometimes I it half shows and goes away again. Does it only show when the shutter is half depressed? Also my shutter button is not locking so how will I tell when the light is too low? Many thanks
  4. Good Morning! I just bought a beautiful little trip and have several questions: 1) the shutter, when looked at through the front of the lens always looks like it is open a little bit! Can this be? Yet, when I open up the back and look through the back of the lens it looks closed. Do you know why? 2) Where's the light meter needle? Or does it not have (or need) one due to the automatic function? 3) There is no foam on the film doors whatsoever! I'm shooting with it like that anyway and am wondering just, exactly, how foolish I am or, just maybe, I can get away with it. It has a gooved set up: the doors have two "walls" and the body has one "wall" that goes in between the channel created by the walls on the door. Maybe this will be enough to keep the light out. God, I'm lazy and don't want to have to fuss around with all that foam and glue and razor blades. Is it really necessary and, if so, where can I get a Trip kit for foam light seal replacement? Thank you so much for indulging this new, but enthusiastic, Trip owner. I love this little camera for its simplicity and its sleekness.
  5. I have an olympus trip 35. I have already put through 1 roll of film fine. With this second film, i decided to rewind after 28 shots (it was a 36 film). The reel seems to not be rewinding at all. is there anyway i can save the film in there and rewind it manually?



  1. I've bought two Olympus Trip 35 cameras, one for my girlfriend, and one for myself. I've got a problem with mine... I've shot two roles Fuji Superia 200 with it and with both some of the negatives are blank. Does that mean that the aperature doesn't open sometimes? My girlfriend's camera doesn't seem to have that problem. Can you help me?
    It does sound as if your camera has a problem with the aperture (iris) not opening and closing properly. It is easy to check this. With the aperture ring set at 'A', press the shutter release button down slowly while you look at the lens. The aperture should be closed to a small hole until you press the button and then, as you press it, the aperture should open smoothly until the leaves can't be seen. You could compare the two cameras to see if they do the same thing. You can also try setting the aperture ring at each setting and pressing the shutter. The lower the value the more the aperture should open. At 2.8, it should be fully open.
    Category: Fault Finding
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  2. Hi there, Ran my first film through the Trip. Used Auto mode. No problems until reaching frame no 14 when the film winder began to show resistance as if the film had finished. Managed to wind on to the next frame with difficulty. Decided to completely rewind film back at this point. When I got the negatives back I could see that at exposure 14 the film had ripped and there were brown lines running across that particular shot and a couple before. Any idea's ? Cheers
    It is unlikely to be a camera fault if the film wound on without any trouble up to this point. It could be a faulty film but it's more likely that you didn't quite get it loaded onto the sprockets correctly. You should make sure the film leader is properly located in the pickup reel and the sprockets and that the film is taut before closing the camera back. I always rotate the winder gently until the film is taut and then shut the back. Then I gently turn the rewind handle until the film is tight in the canister. If the film is slack it sometimes goes out of line and tightens when you wind it on. Try doing this with the next film and it should be OK.
    Category: Fault Finding
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  3. Hi there. I've just bought my trip 35 from a charity shop for £3.99 but have noticed that the red low light box only pops up when it likes and sometimes I it half shows and goes away again. Does it only show when the shutter is half depressed? Also my shutter button is not locking so how will I tell when the light is too low? Many thanks
    The red "flag" does come partly into view whenever you press the shutter release button but it should only come right up when the shutter is prevented from firing because of the light being too low. To test, set the aperture to "A", wind on the film winder and press the shutter release with your hand over the lens. The red flag should come up and the shutter should be prevented from firing - the button will depress but it won't fire the shutter. Then wind on again and point the camera towards a bright light. Press the shutter release again and the shutter should fire. Note that with the aperture set to anything other than "A", the shutter will fire regardless of the amount of available light. By complete coincidence, I have just tried my camera to aid me in writing this and find that it has developed a similar problem after all the years of perfect service! The red flag comes up but the shutter still fires as if it were not set to "A". This doesn't necessarily mean that the meter isn't working. I have just checked mine (roughly). You can do this by setting the aperture to "A" and looking into the lens whilst depressing the shutter with the camera pointing to different levels of light. The lower the light, the more the aperture diaphragm should open. You don't have to wind the film on to test this. The final test of course is to put a test film through the camera.
    Category: Fault Finding
    332 visitor(s) thought this was helpful. Do you? Yes, it was helpful No, it was not helpful


  4. Good Morning! I just bought a beautiful little trip and have several questions: 1) the shutter, when looked at through the front of the lens always looks like it is open a little bit! Can this be? Yet, when I open up the back and look through the back of the lens it looks closed. Do you know why? 2) Where's the light meter needle? Or does it not have (or need) one due to the automatic function? 3) There is no foam on the film doors whatsoever! I'm shooting with it like that anyway and am wondering just, exactly, how foolish I am or, just maybe, I can get away with it. It has a gooved set up: the doors have two "walls" and the body has one "wall" that goes in between the channel created by the walls on the door. Maybe this will be enough to keep the light out. God, I'm lazy and don't want to have to fuss around with all that foam and glue and razor blades. Is it really necessary and, if so, where can I get a Trip kit for foam light seal replacement? Thank you so much for indulging this new, but enthusiastic, Trip owner. I love this little camera for its simplicity and its sleekness.
    1. There should be a small aperture in the centre of the diaphragm and that should increase in size when you press the shutter button. If you set the aperture at f2.8 and press the button the aperture should open fully. If you then select each aperture in turn and press the button each time, you should see the aperture get progressively smaller until, at f22, it will be at the same small size as it is without the button being pressed. You should then try setting the aperture at "A" and pressing the shutter button and releasing it in different levels of light whilst looking into the lens. You should see that the aperture gets progressively smaller as you point the camera towards brighter light. When you look from inside the camera you ar seeing the shutter leaf. You will only see the aperture when you wind on and press the shutter release button. If you poin the camera towards a bright light when you do this you will see a flash as the shutter opens. This is how there can be an aperture showing when you view from the front; the light is prevented from reaching the film by the shutter. The red flag mechanism does tend to fail eventually. Ours suddenly failed when I was looking at it to answer a question for someone. It had been working perfectly and suddenly didn't! The camera still operates perfectly though it's just that it will take shots when the light is insufficient. There is only one way to find out if the camera is working and that's to put a film though it. I would recommend taking a variety of test shots in different lighting situaltions and different focus distances with the aperture dial set at A and see what the results are like. I hope you will be pleasantly surprised. Don't forget to set the ASA dial to match the film you are using. 2. There is no needle or other indicator as the apertue and shutter speed selection is automatic. 3. You do need the foam strip. You can probably sort this out yourself. I don't think you can get a kit specifically for th Trip but any good camera shop shoul dbe able to get you something suitable.
    Category: Fault Finding
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  5. I have an olympus trip 35. I have already put through 1 roll of film fine. With this second film, i decided to rewind after 28 shots (it was a 36 film). The reel seems to not be rewinding at all. is there anyway i can save the film in there and rewind it manually?
    First of all, are you certain the film was being transported from the spool when you took the 28 pictures? If it was, the winder would have been turning as you wound the film on. If you are sure this was happening, it could be that the film has broken or slipped off the sprockets. You will need to open the back in a completely dark room, remove the film from the camera and manually wind the film back into the canister. Then get it developed. If you have had to wind a lot of film back into the canister your film will have been exposed and should be fine. If, when you opened the back you found that there was only a short length of film to wind back, unfortunately the film will not have been exposed.
    Category: Fault Finding
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