Hi,
We have had the same problem for some time know. The engine will start freely and runs well, however after fifteen to twenty minutes it will stall at its earliest opportunity, traffic lights and round abouts.
This problem has only occurred since I changed the fuel filter and serviced the injectors. The fuel was blown backward into the tank after several trips, and the lines where bled as the engine ran. At starting the engine is still Smokey, but as we don’t run it often it is difficult to tell if this is a symptom.
Also has anybody out they’re tried to pressure test their cooling system? I would love to hear any advice on how to do so.
Regards
Mick

My bus number (if any): RM11

Michael
I think you probably know that this is more than likely to be a fuel supply problem, it can be caused by lots of things, dirty fuel, pump sticking, injectors blocked etc. Best may be to check tank is not full of crap and that the fuel lines are clean and all filters clear. If it stil persists get the fuel pump checked and check that each injector is receiving fuel.

My bus number (if any): RTL 960, RML 2667, RM 1585, RMC 1458 and 14 RTs

No idea about pressure testing but it would be really useful if it could help identify coolant leaks. I put new anti-freeze in my RMS in November and several new leaks appeared which has meant I've had to drain both buses, change several hoses and replace some gaskets. The hardest problem was the moulding between the two cylinder block heads on the AEC AV590. It was very corroded and I needed to cut away the gasket, saw through three of the bolts (UNF bolts are all hardened steel) and then drill them out and retap the holes. They never taught me all this at medical school. The moulding is so corroded that it needed building up with aluminium welds before machining it. Hope it works.

If I could have pressure tested it I might have been able to identify these problems before putting the anti-freeeze in.

My bus number (if any): RM471 & RM2213

Thanks for your answers guys. Pretty much as I expected.
I will have to drain the tank, I was really trying to avoid this as the drain bolt has been pushed into the sump and I cannot get a spanner on it. As there is also a slow leak of fuel coming from it I fear the tank is weakened and will tear with too much force. So I will pump out the majority and take the tank of.
I guess I will get it professionally cleaned and painted at the same time. I think at that stage I could drill and tap the existing bolt and insert a new bolt as a drain plug. Any suggestions?
On the pressure testing I have in mind a low pressure set-up using lengths of rubber pipe, wine makers bungs, jubilee clips, hand pump with pressure gauge with a non return valve. Each hose, in turn, could then be removed at one end and the appropriate bung inserted. This way it should be possible to check each area of the coolant system individually.
This may be a wild idea, but would food colouring added to the coolant show as coloured smoke when the bus is started, i.e. indicating a failed head gasket.
I look forward to any suggestions you may have.
Regards
Mick

My bus number (if any): RM110

I have renovated several fuel tanks including 2 for an RM and one just a few weeks ago for a car.

Currently there are a few really good treatments out there that work really well and will last for decades if the process is followed carefully.

I've used the company below several times and their products are excellent so here's a link.
http://www.rust.co.uk/filestore/rustbook.pdf

With the tank removed and all covers removed, it was steam cleaned inside and out. It was then externally stripped to bare metal for inspection and to allow thorough degreasing.

A special cleaning and decontaminating fluid is sloshed around the inside of the tank and poured out. This neutralises any remaining detrius.
This takes 2 people to do this

The LT silver paint had kept the tanks in good fettle although one had damage from I suspect a poorly placed jack.

Once thoroughly dry, we poured in the sealant which is just like treacle.
This is sloshed around the tank by rotating it every which way.
It cures in the atmosphere (even if damp) And forms a high bond with the metal and an impervious glass like finish that wont crack or leak. In other words a bonded liner.

It takes about a week to fully cure and we coat the outside of the tanks by brush followed by several coats of epoxy silver.

The method works extremely well and by flushing out the fuel lines and fitting filters should ensure many. many years of trouble free fuel supply.
It costs about 80 quid to do this but that's a whole lot cheaper than a new tank and will leave you with a better than original tank for good.
Ian Allen may make a deal or a special RM size pack at a discount if you approach him nicely