Hi there,

we are trying to get the new glass and rubber into the frames but we read it should be easy but even when we pushed very hard it still looks as if it would not be in the correct position. Do you know if there is an exact description (or even a video) somewhere in the internet? If you have done this before how hard did you push and do you have any hints? We used washing up liquid before we put the rubber/glass into the frame but it still didnt work.

Thanks!

Kind regards
Antonia

My bus number (if any): RML2386

I read that you shouldnt use washing up liquid and we tried it again just with water but it was still very hard and time consuming to push it in and it still looks as it wouldnt be in the correct position.
Arghhh... Hoch much time did you need for one window and where did you start (on the top/corner etc.)? I asked someone here in the workshop who had done the job before but he told as he used the old rubber again it was very easy.

Thanks for your answer!

My bus number (if any): RML2386

Hi Tonia.
Reglazing a routemaster is easy, BUT you will need strong elbows and wrists!
Some people will say use washing up liquid, some will say don't. Some (even profesional glazers from RAC Auto Windscreens!) use WD40, others say not to as the oil damages the rubber. I used washing up liquid 4 years ago and the rubber does not seem to have been harmed...
Run the rubber around the pane of glass, on the floor. The joint should be at the bottom.
Offer the window up to the opening and press into place. The window will hold, JUST, so you will need to use one hand to hold it in place.
Ideally you need a plastic glazing tool from somewhere like PSV glass, but its not essential. You can use either the rounded end of a wide very, very blunt screwdriver or the end of a dessert spoon, something of that nature. You need to be carefull not to A) slip and break the window, and B) scratch the aluminium surround of the window pan. From the top corner of an opener, or a corner of a fixed window, start to push the rubber behind the retaining lip of the window frame. You need to push it behind the lip about an inch at a time. The lube helps it slip in easily. You do need to use quite a bit of force to do this sometimes, particularly if your new glass is metric which is slightly thicker than the original imperial spec. Follow around the frame pressing the rubber into place.
Initially it took me an hour to do one window before I got the hang of it. By the end of the top deck I had got it down to half an hour to remove, and refit a window pane with new rubber.
Hope this helps!
Steve

My bus number (if any): RM531

Steve has summed it up very well . Make sure you clean up any old rubber left on the frames . It's a tight squeeze because as Steve mentions , the glass is slightly thicker . I used a touch of washing up liquid as well to help . It gets easier the more you do . Perhaps a good idea to do a few inches at a time at different places to reduce the risk of the window 'popping' out . Sometimes they are easy , sometimes not !
Mark

My bus number (if any): RML2391

Thanks you two for your answers. We managed to get three glasses fitted and our hands hurt! They should manufacture the rubber slightly thinner at the edge, at the end we cut off a millimeter and it made it a bit easier. Wow if I had known that we wouldnt have bought a complete nearly new set of windows...

If anyone is interessted in the old ones write me, off course they are free but would need to picked up at Faversham, Kent within the next 2 weeks. Unfortunaly we broke a few as the boys used a bit too much power.

Have a nice evening, I will go to bed and probably dream of the glass :).
Tonia

My bus number (if any): RML2386

I must say I am surprised to hear that what is a very simple glazing job compared say to destination glasses and other types of buses is causing so much hassle. Why is any lubricant needed? To fit rubber to glass or around the outside to fit rubber to window pan? These problems suggest there are dimension problems either with glass or rubber. I have used RM glass from PSV glass and not found a problem with any so far although we have had problems with RT glasses being undersized.

RMs are far easier to do than RTs as the fitment is from the inside so no balancing on ladders. I am also surprised that glass has been broken, the only place that glass is vulnerable is the edges, it can take any amount of bashing on the face with a hand, or side of a fist or should do!!. One thing we used to do with big glasses was to fit the rubber to the glass, tight on all corners and cut to size, joint at the top of course then tape the rubber on to the glass with masking tape to keep it in place. Offer to window pan, push in place and feed lip into edge of polished finisher with rounded tool, cut off marking tape. I did a rear frame like this recently on my own and it really was not a problem using the old rubber, has anyone compared the section of the old and new rubber?

My bus number (if any): RMC 1458, RM 1585, RTL 960 and 15 RTs

I'm replacing some cloudy Perspex with glass from PSV and R398-C rubber from Woolies in the blind boxes of RM471 and 2213. It is certainly a struggle and a two person job, one inside and one outside. The rubber has to be pushed over the edge of the glass a couple of millimeters at a time. I now have glass fitters elbow! We use neat washing up liquid and it seems to help a bit. The lacing strip tends to slip out too easily with washing up liquid.

My bus number (if any): RM238, RM471 & RM2213

You can use the same method as I described above Chris for destination glasses. The easy bit is fitting the rubber onto the frame, you stick it in place with masking tape at several places, and both sides of all corners.
The hard bit is getting the glass into the rubber, particularly with break glass, it was as hard with the original lipped rubber and a little bit of soapy water does no harm although tyre fitters lubricant is the best. The aim is to get top or bottom in first and in the corners tight then feed the glass into the rubber a little at a time alternating from side to side, until it goes of its own accord. The lace should be fitted with a glazing tool (pity I didn't know you could have had one when I saw you). Then leave the lace long for a day if possible and cut to fit. The lace joint is usually at the bottom of the glass opposite to rubber joint.

My bus number (if any): RMC 1458, RM 1585, RTL 960 and 15 RTs

You do have to be careful with lubricants as some washing up liquids contain some elements which can be corrosive to either alloy or rubber.
Water when trapped in aluminium does not like it and causes corrosion.

The cheapest stuff is the best as there are generally no additives.
There is also a glaziers lubricant which is also a basic no additives soap.

A good quality sealer used sparingly will enhance the water seal and I always use string or thick nylon cord as a tool to pull the lip through cleanly.

The simplest explanation for Tonia problems is that it's the wrong time of the year to do this sort of job. It's possible but 10 times harder than in warm temperatures.

Tricks:

1. Keep the rubber in a very warm room prior to use.
2. Immerse rubber in very hot water prior to use.
3. Keep the working are as warm as possible, warm the glass and the frame but use a hair dryer and heat gently.
This causes a little expansion but as it cools the contraction aids a watertight fit.

If you do not allow for expansion then as soon as the weather warms up and the bus gets hot, problems occurr. from splitting rubbers and leaks to glass cracking.

The thicker metric glass mating with imperial sized rubber although a small difference, does make a big difference to the quality of fit.

Good information and tips Jack, but I have to ask where you would use string in glazing an RM?

My bus number (if any): RMC 1458, RM 1585, RTL 960 and 15 RTs

Thanks for all the answers, we have nearly finished the job and hopefully won´t have to do it again!

What we realized: it´s the best if you to have the break on top (that the water can´t come in) to start in the middle of the bottom and work to the top and at the end we had to cut the rubber to size.

Thanks again, its great to have so many experienced people here!
Tonia

My bus number (if any): RML2386