I think its known as Murphy's law but having cured the poor starting problem we were having we now seem to have another probably unrelated problem.
Since moving the batteries forward I took the old girl out for a ride around and find that when driving in "Auto" she changes gear so quickly and smoothly you hardly feel anything.Now I'm pleased as punch at the super smooth gear change but my question is, Is it correct or a sign of a problem about to rear it's ugly head?

My bus number (if any): RML2478

As long as everything is properly greased, all the correct spec fluids are topped up to the right levels
and all the connections are clean, you should not really have any problems.

The performance improvement is simply down to (put simply) improved current flow and intensity. ie amperage.

This is why we only use the very best quality cable for our trucks and trailers. It makes such a difference.

Are you keeping an eye on the batteries and making sure they are not getting overcharged or hot`?

Hello Jack
We keep a regular check on all levels and probably grease things a little to often.So far we are more than happy with the decision to move the batteries as it has once and for all proved that the cables were in fact the problem.We have fitted a new isolator switch in close proximity to the batteries which I hope should take care of any problems while she is parked up.We are going to rebuild the original battery carrier as this was found to be in pretty poor condition and will return the batteries to their correct location in the new year.I will keep an eye on the batteries for overheating and excessive charge and let you know if anything untoward happens

My bus number (if any): RML2478

When it comes to this area, David Colin is quite the expert to ask as it's his specialist trade.

I'm not sure how to do it off the top of my head but I'm sure he might be able to explain how you can measure the charge going into the batteries and to each battery using a meter.

But in the meantime It's worth ringing round a few HGV motor factors and get some quotes on bespoke cables made to the highest specs and with sealed end terminals.

Good luck. Jack

Thanks Jack and good morning all

Graham

I see no reason why the batteries will overcharge with a shorter cable. If you had good cables and connectors the resistance should be negligible even at full length.

You can buy a clip on ammeter to check charging current but do not start the bus with it in place. It will not work again if you do. Similarly you can check voltage across the batteries with the engine off and then running. Not sure (it has been a while) what the current tolerances are and it will depend on alternator type but the voltage should be around 28V when charging. Use a good DC voltmeter. It is very easy for a cheap or old meter to be several volts adrift making the test a waste of time! If in doubt ask a local repairer to check it (assuming they have there equipment calibrated regularly).

When you reinstall the batteries in the correct position you should use the correct sized cable (I would suggest at least 50mm2 but that is larger than the original) and quality copper terminals. If you cannot afford a quality crimping tool you could solder them but be careful you don't make the cable brittle by allowing solder to run up the cable. Heat on, solder on, solder off heat off will prevent dry joints.

I am happy to make up battery links (some are in stock)or individual cables if anyone wants any. They will be made from Tri-rated cable (I do not use vehicle cable) with a hexagon crimp on single hole copper terminals with "Hellerman" red or black sleeves fitted. I also have the right angled cable lugs used on other LT buses in the 70's and 80's for starter motor connections. For those with Metrobuses (few and far between)I can supply any wiring harness or assembly including voith parts many from stock or made to order.

I have a few of the original type twin hole ERMA PSV connectors but they are very expensive and rarely used nowadays.

All my work is compliant with London Transport's 1980's electrical specification regarding materials and tooling.

Let me know your bus type and current battery layout (do a sketch if need be). I have most cable and assembly drawings.

David Colin

My bus number (if any): RML2276 M1001 T806