Hi all,

In the next few weeks I a draining my coolant to replace a rather leaky part.

While it’s drained, I thought it might be best to give the radiators a clean out. Does had any tips for the best way/products to clean out the radiators and the rest of the system.

The air it gives out isn't too warm so I’m guessing the upstairs radiator one might be a mucky inside.

I presume this will also find any other holes I may have so I can fix them too!



Also, the valve of the saloon heater (above the canopy) doesn't appear to be connected to anything so the heating is always on. I'll be investigating why it isn't connected this weekend but if it is bust, is there any recommended part to replace it with?

Rather hope it was only removed from the circuit to stop people playing with it, and I can just connect it up!

Thanks in advanced

My bus number (if any): RMF2771 ( RCN 701 )

The thing under the canopy is a 'Ranko valve'. If you need a new one Airlec at Rye may be worth a call since these were commonly fitted to 1950s & 60s American cars. Dave is an enthusiast for these old US monsters. He may be able to put you in touch with a company that makes cables too.

Don't waste time flushing the radiator and the heater radiator, get both items professionally re-cored. Both have the potential to boil and wreck your engine; probably when you are in the middle of Ulan Bator. Whip the cab heater rad out too and renew every hose in the system.

Having seen the results of a blocked radiator destroying 2 good engines on an RM in Germany, I second what roy says; get the radiators rebuilt. It'll cost a few hundred, but with AEC engines t a premium, it's got to be worth it.

My bus number (if any): RML2532

My bus number (if any): RMF2771 (RCN701)

I use Express Radiators, just round the back of Norwood Bus Garage, they've been doing LT stuff for years.

My bus number (if any): RML2532

Heathrow Radiators also recore RM radiators and heater matrix's

Recored ones are to a more modern design and are more efficient which can change the optimum operating pressure and temperatures.
But if you ask for the original spec they will do it although it costs a little more.

An entire flush using a commercial vehicle radflush will make a difference but for best results it needs to be done 3 times over a couple of weeks and a good 50 mile run.

It will cost almost as much as a recore.