Is there a nack of replacing the lower saloon window next to the 4-seats without taking down the refurb lighting unit? The glass with rubber simply won't fit between the Transmatic lighting cove and the seat back!

My bus number (if any): RML2532

Hi Roy,
Im afraid not the only way to change the window is as you said to remove the refurbished lighting units to gain access, no shorts cuts with that job unless someone else knows different.
I had the same issue when I re rubbered 2463 last summer, but on the flip side it gives you the chance to see how things look behind the light units and to give the area a it a bit of a clean up.

All the best
Pete.

My bus number (if any): RML 2463 & RML 2460

It's only a few rivets to drill out and replace for each unit - some of the brackets may be a bit brittle by now though and liable to fracture !

My bus number (if any): RML2747

Thanks, I found out there's no easy way. The worst bit was getting coving panel back by myself. A broom came in handy to prop under it!

I also found the irritating squeak around the nearside rear. Despite extensive probing under the bus, nothing loose, until I took up the 4 seats and found the shock absorber cover plate under the seat was only held in with 3 screws and was loose!

Also, what's the knack of getting the window winders to engage with the bits on the sliding windows? I know some of the teeth wear over the years especially at the bottom of the sliders but it is possible with care to put the toothed bit the other way up on the opposite end of the window if that makes sense so the worn bit it at the top.

My bus number (if any): RML2532

As Graham says, my coving is very brittle too and has cracked in places. Does anyone know of any trick for re-riveting without cracking or a means of repairing please?

My bus number (if any): RML2302

Alan Gregory on the other channel has posted a mine of information about window mechanisms in the past.

Hi Roy - I think your post probably wasn't a reply to me as my query was about the coving but you're quite right, Alan has gone into the subject in depth and even gave a practical "workshop" once - he was described as "The Window Wizard" by other owners!

My bus number (if any): RML2302

Hi Guys,
I've seen your posts and have a couple of suggestions from when I carried out that sort of work on 2463 which maybe of interest.

Firstly I found the plastic brackets to be brittle and in fact a couple did actually break so I made up some new ones from some off cuts of ali I had lying around from when I repaneled the bus. I also keyed them and gave them a coat of etch primer before fitting them.

In regards to lining the winder bars up with the quarter drop windows, I was quite lucky in the fact that only the front, top offside window was worn. Luckily I had the right sided piece to swap over from some bits and pieces I found at PVS Barnsley years ago. I used GT 85 to roughly clean all the teeth on the quarter drop window, cleaned the brass clip on each side and repacked everything with White grease.
I also took the opportunity to clean and re grease the winder bars by taking the end cogs, grease nipples, the shaft, handle and spindle off to clean and regrease. As you said Roy you could try rotating the teeth which should work.

In regards to re riveting the light panels back I placed a small washer behind the rivet which I fill takes the pressure of the rivet head away from the plastic cover.

Brian I maybe able to help, I took the refurbished light units out of RML 2460 a while ago when I was re glazing. I am not putting them back in as I have sourced original style light units from Squirrel Preservation. I kept the light units as spares for 2463 and other people that may need bits and pieces. Let me know if its the plastic ends or the whole units you need. I can not promise but I maybe able to help.

All the best.
Pete.

My bus number (if any): RML 2463 & RML 2460

Thanks Pete - I've replied to you by email

My bus number (if any): RML2302

One thing I forgot to mention earlier was even after I had done all the cleaning, greasing and making sure I had everything lined up I still had a couple of windows that would not open. All that happened was that the handle rotated with a clicking sound,but the window didn't move.

The solution I found to this was I noticed after comparing a faulty window bar with one that works, I noticed the spring inside the handle was slightly shorter. To cure this I made a tiny spacer and put that behind the locking pin in the handle, then put the spring back and done up the bolt on the handle.

They both work perfectly now, and was a cheap fix as I used a piece of rod that came out of printer from work when it was being repaired. Now when the engineers at work service one of our printers they save the old paper feed rollers for me!

My bus number (if any): RML 2463 & RML 2460