Can anyone tell me the bolt thread and length needed for the nut guards on the front wheels?

My bus number (if any): RMF2771

The Squirrel boys should have them Matt or at least know the size - they were were right next to you at Cobham on Sunday

My bus number (if any): RML2747

Got my lots for the nut guards, but I struggled to get them in due to huge amount of dirty and paint in the holes so I'm having to run a tap though the holes.
If anyone does need to know what the tread type is for future reference; it is 3/8 BSF.

My bus number (if any): RMF2771

Hi all thanks Graham for spreading word much appreciated yes we have them in stock and for the RT ,it was a hot day hey Matt

My bus number (if any): RCL2238.RM1000 RT etc

3/8 BSF is correct.

Have been offline for a while so apologies for not replying earlier.

You might find that bolts have sheared in the treads or that the threads have been crossed. Fitters were not particularly careful with these. So you might need to tap out or go up a size

The one issue to be careful of is making sure they are secure when fitted. Bolts have been known to undo and fly off.

Worse though is a wheel nut shearing or cracking and coming off. There were incidents of that in the early days of Buses and trucks and one of the reasons these were designed. An early safety device that doubles as an embellishment.

In the late days of RML operation, a few incidents of front wheel nuts coming off - one in Oxford St, occurred.
These "Superficial Trims' were removed to economise without realising that they actually had a safety function.

The result was the fitment of dayglo torsion markers. A combination of both was adopted by the more diligent garages.

So studs with Nyloc nuts or bolts but both with lock washers and shake proof washers. The heat can often melt the nylons.

Some stainless steel washers as spacers might be useful. Try to keep the ring clear of the wheel nut heads by a few mm. Also if a wheel nut does loosen then it will rattle causing the the ring to ...well, ring!

Another tip I've used on preserved vehicles is to bond a ring of 3mm rubber to the inside of the ring. This protects the outer polished face from indent marks should it get rubbed against anything - which is common when parked in tight storage spaces.

Hope this helps

Jack

Thanks how the heads up on the cross threading, i hope i don't have the drill and tap larger!

I have picked up a tap already with the view of using the tap to clean the threats. I spend a good 30 mins on good friday with needle nose pliers pulling out chunks of painted in dirt!

My bus number (if any): RMF2771

I recently fitted front nut guards to MLL738 and had to tap out the holes. 3/8 bsf if I remember correctly! If you do have to go to oversize holes, consider using one of the helicoil thread repair kits that can be bought for about £20; you drill out oversize, tap the hole and insert one of the helicoil inserts. Simples.

My bus number (if any): RML2532

Other AEC models use a hexagonal spacer with a thread each end to keep the wheel trim clear of the wheel nuts.

As an aside, do not use a plain washer directly underneath a spring washer or a shakeproof washer, it defeats the purpose of the thing.

AEC vehicles were put together using double coil Thackray washers, which are not that easy to get hold of these days.

Matt, pretty obvious really, but don't forget to put plenty of paint protection on the back and centres of the nut guard rings or just leave the front ring chrome, as they are mean't to be protected and will start rust pitting pretty quickly if left bare - as many people have found out particularly the remade ones that are just plonked onto the bus as they come !

My bus number (if any): RML2747

Hi graham,

Yeah the backs on my have started to rust (they are a old pair cleaned up) but the fronts are good.

I have removed all the rust on back by soaking them in white vinegar and covering them in a good layer of salt for 24 hours (yes this works as a gentle rust remover) then a gentle scrub with a soft brass brush which removes the softened rust with out damaging the chrome.

I have coated the back in several layers of rust inhibiting paint.
I will be getting some SS spacers made up to hold them away from the wheel nuts
I will be painting the centres but not let, as I need to source some paint for the wheels (my two local automotive paint supplier have dawn a blank on W1074 Indian Red). Currently the wheels are painting a redy-purple with the visible brake drum painted black.

Roy, yaah i spent hour looking on line for that sort of washer, found loads but non in right size grrrrr

My bus number (if any): RMF2771

Try Bilt and Hamber Deox C powder diluted into a bath in a plastic tray (not metal) soak rusted steel as long as you like (non corrosive) doesn't affect brass or chrome removes even heavy rust to a grey bare metal - rinse and dry ASAP afterwards (I've even popped stuff straight in the oven to dry it when the Missus isn't around) Coat with primer before the moisture in the air gets at it. Amazing stuff I've used it for over ten years and the metal remains rust free. Not particularly cheap but the bath can be reused several times until it goes dark brown (also comes as Deox gel for brush application on stuff you can't soak) - For belt and braces you can coat with a rust converter before primer if very heavily rusted like Hydrate 80 which turns black from blue when cured I've used on chassis parts to long term effectiveness but it's quite expensive. - If you want to clean Aluminium up (ie the stairs kick plates etc,) soak in diluted Selden Selalite aluminium Cleaner and Descaler, then rinse and give them a good polish, cleaning out any residue from the scratches with brake cleaner. I recently soaked my stainless steel flask in white vinegar and baking soda overnight - gave it a scrub inside and out and it came up like new ! (and to think that she was going to throw it away!)

My bus number (if any): RML2747

cheers for the tip on the aliuminum, Diluted Selden Selalite aluminium Cleaner and Descale, just a shame someone has already painting my steps silver.

Below is some before and after photos of cleaning up the rust on the back of my trims.



Unfortunately I forgot to take a photo after 24hrs. in the vinegar salt mix, the middle photo is after only 12 hours with a light brush and rinse but the difference already is quite impressive.


I brought the trims covered in so much dirt and grease they actually looked like they were completely rusty.
To remove this I heated them in the oven (it smelt like a steam train - good smell I thought) and soaked them hot in in a engine degreaser for 10 mins before hosing off and wiping with a clean rag/. I had to repeat this 2 more times but with no scrubbing it revealed near perfect chrome on the front. (there are few minor dents on one which I've now mostly straightened out with out affecting the chrome)



this photo is after degreasing but before de-rusting, all the rust on the trim on the right is now all gone and painted.

My bus number (if any): RMF2771

Looks impressive will experiment with salt and vinegar as it's cheaper - best to paint strip stair plates then soak in cleaner before polish - they will look much better than silver paint !

My bus number (if any): RML2747

Some good tips there on metal restoration!

Some use Jenolite for rust removal, I 've used Ferobetamax which is the stuff that turns blue then black when cured. Mkae sure you don't rub it off when you're prparing for painitng1

williamsons Paint do LT Indian Red, I got a can from them the other week, part number is posted on here somewhere.

My bus number (if any): RML2532