There seems to exist some confusion among the Routemaster fraternity as to the correct method in which to remove and replace the nearside rear brake slack adjuster, either because of seizure or for maintenance purposes.

Having secured the vehicle by manually chocking all four wheel positions, and releasing the hand brake. Prepare and make ready too jack and support the B frame and support the vehicles body.

Remove the two nearside road wheels, rack off the brake so that the S cam lays in a horizontal position. This can be checked by noting the spline end having a groove machined in it at right angle or 90 deg to the S cam position. Remove the frame cylinder push rod and hand brake linkage by their respective clevis pins, not forgetting the adjuster connecting rod.

The brake drum should now be easier to remove. The S cam will now be exposed in it's horizontal position. Release and swing both shoe irons away from the cam.

To facilitate an easier removal of the adjuster once unbolted from it's spline, withdraw the brake cam shaft in the direction of the hub just enough and await the adjuster to slide off of the cam shaft.

Fitting of a replacement will be in reverse of the above with some additions.

Before reconnecting the push rod linkage, bottom out the rod in the frame cylinder and a measurement 7.75"inches should be obtained from the body face of the cylinder to the centre point of the clevis pin fork end, adjust if necessary. Re-grease both ends of the cam shaft. Only lubricate with oil the shoe roller pins and all clevis pins. Adjust the rear brake shoes on both sides to obtain 0.015" clearance to drum.

My bus number (if any): Ex LTE Bus Engineering

Thank you for that Mike perhaps Chris can put on the website for easy future reference.
A lot of people faced with changing shoes or the slack adjuster for the first time, end up trying to wind the shoes off in the wrong direction using more and more force causing untold damage to the slack adjusters, it's therefore important to read the Manual or RSE Instruction about the direction to wind off as it's different on front and rear wheels.

My bus number (if any): RTL 960, RMC 1458, RM 1585 and several RTs

That makes it sound so easy! Dealing with recalcitrant split pins, a fiendishly powerful C spring and a really quite awkward linkage return spring just adds to the joy. The brake drum does tend to come off a lot easier if the hub seal has soaked everything in oil. Wear goggles.

Then you have the fun of replacing the oil seals and relining the brakes too! Don't forget to fit the right ize rolles on the shoes.

My bus number (if any): RML2532